Every detail you see when you step inside Wild Roots pays homage to the name of this earth-centric restaurant located in West Allis. There are three deer sculls with their antlers, boards on the wall with simulated roots that dangle, and slabs of maple wood cut from the tree trunk, or “tree cookies,” as we knew them at Riveredge. The décor speaks to Chef Thi Cao’s purpose to serve clean, simple flavors that reflect his reverence for the natural world. As much as possible, Chef Cao stays with Wisconsin foraged and farmed produce, what the Wild Roots website calls “Seed to Table.” The chef partnered with Big City Greens to bring the best, freshest, and often, most unique produce to the table at his restaurant. For example, he used the curled leafs of a young fern, called fiddleheads, in the Vegetable Hash Bowl — the Daily Special on my first Sunday brunch visit. The bowl was a riot of flavors; filled to the brim with fiddleheads, squash, broccoli, cubes of soft tofu, two poached eggs and hollandaise. The tight circles of crunchy fiddleheads had a grassy taste, like young asparagus tips, and acted as highlights for the dish. We noted the promised morel mushrooms were missing, so w...